Showing posts with label plants for back garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plants for back garden. Show all posts

Back Garden Access - How to - Practical Planning

While the front garden is generally on display, in the private part of the garden at the back of the house, your imagination can take over. In this secret haven, all the stresses and cares of the day are put aside in favor of pleasure and relaxation.

No matter what size it is, even the tiniest patch can be filled with plants to delight the senses. The size of the garden is of little importance to the end result, because, by considering scale and color carefully, and using every surface and dimension to the full, you can create an impression that the garden is much bigger, longer or wider than it really is.

Much more critical to success are the basic steps that will ensure the plants grow well. The pH of the soil - how acidic or alkaline it is -will govern the range of plants to an extent, as well as the general aspect of the garden and amount of sun it receives. By taking all these factors into account, you will discover ways to create the perfect garden no matter how restricting the site might at first appear.


Access to the Back Garden


Making sure that the routes to certain points around the garden are kept clear will reduce the risk of damage to the plants, but this does not have to mean having a straight concrete path down the middle.

Practical Planning

The back garden can have such a multitude of uses that the points for access are many and varied, and are seldom as simple as just in-and-out. There may be a back gate, for reaching a rubbish (trash) storage area or garage; a shed, compost heap or greenhouse; a clothes line; or a children's play area, all of which will need a direct line of access. Not providing this direct route will result in "desire lines" being worn across the lawn or through the plants as short-cuts are inevitably taken. Watching these lines develop is often the easiest way of working out exactly where the paths ought to go, but by then, the damage may have been done.

There are many different surfaces to choose from for paths, from bark to stone, brick to gravel, and the choice is entirely personal. Aim to keep the surface material in context with the house wherever possible. Match the brick to those used on the house or select a complementary shade of gravel.

If the path runs across, or next to, a lawn, it is important to remember that loose gravel will seriously damage the blades of a lawnmower. Unless the gravel can be resin-bonded to keep it in place, it is probably better to go for slabs or bricks, which can be set lower than the grass, or bark, which is softer and will not cause so much damage.

Sources:

Landscaping Directory

Home and Garden Directory

Home and Garden

How to Choose Plants for a Back Garden

Every plant has a preference about its ideal growing conditions, and putting a plant in the right spot will I mean the difference between it thriving or merely surviving. Certain plants prefer to grow in soils that are higher or lower in acidity than others, while some cannot tolerate acidity at all.

Know Your Soil

Avoid expensive mistakes by choosing a plant that is suitable for the soil where it is to be grown. The best way to ascertain the soil pH level is to buy a testing kit, because the levels do vary considerably within even local areas, depending on where the topsoil was brought in from, or what the underlying rock is.

The pH of the soil is influenced by the underlying bedrock, the amount of rainfall, the rate of drainage and also nearby vegetation such as pine trees (which produce acid foliage).

Soil Structure

The soil in which the plants are to grow is a collection of minerals and organic matter (humus) which will be expected to support the plant throughout its life. To be able to do this, they usually need a little bit of help in the form of organic matter and fertilizer.

Soil consists of sand, silt, clay and humus, and the proportions in which each is present will determine the structure of the soil - its consistency and water-retaining properties. The more large sand particles it contains, the more easily water will drain through it and the more quickly it will warm up in spring, allowing earlier planting. Silt particles are smaller, so water is held for longer, but they retain little in the way of nutrients. Clay particles are smallest of all; they hold on to nutrients and water extremely well, but produce a heavy, solid soil that is cold (slow to warm up in spring, because the water has to warm up as well as the particles), and prone to damage if it is worked when it is too wet.

The ideal soil to have is a loam, which contains a perfect balance ' of all the elements, producing a crumbly soil, often dark in color, which holds both moisture and nutrients well, without becoming water-logged. Unfortunately, this is rare, and most gardens have a soil that favors one particle size over the others and so needs help in the form of added organic matter to make it easier to work. This can take the form of well-rotted manure or compost (soil mix). Organic matter adds air to a solid soil and keeps moisture for longer in a free-draining one.

How to Test the Soil pH

1. Take a sample of soil from the area to be tested from about 10cm (4in) under the soil surface. To get a representative sample from the whole garden, take at least five small samples from all over the plot. Mix them together thoroughly in a screw-top jar
2. Thoroughly mix the soil and indicator chemicals, according to the instructions on the pack.
3. Add liquid to the soil/chemical mixture in the container and shake it vigorously.

Sources:

Home and Garden Directory


http://www.allconstructiondirectory.com/home-garden/

http://www.homeimprovementdir.org/home-garden/


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